ford 8n hydraulic lift control lever adjustment

"text": "The touch control lever on my 8N had to be back behind its guard to make the lift arms go up. Flattened it no problem. Find the worn pin. Maybe not true. I'm new to this forum stuff. and if it looks like the pic, it will need to be repaired. Hold the hydraulic touch control lever at the top of the quadrant and gently tap the quadrant support plate forward or backward until both of the above requirements are fulfilled. Dec 17, 2013. rmissildine said: Hello all. "userInteractionCount": 34 { and if it looks like the pic, it will need to be repaired. For a trailer queen, we would rebuild all the seals and stop the drips. Luckily the tractor gets little work. A really hard freeze could actually crack something. The control lever and quadrant moves the valve spools on the pump to control the lift. Enough to cause the lift issues? With about 800 pounds on the lift arms, the front tires start to come off the ground. Epoxy? Case, Case-IH, Farmall, International Harvester, New Holland and their logos are registered trademarks of CNH Global N.V. window.dataLayer = window.dataLayer || []; function gtag(){dataLayer.push(arguments);} gtag('js', new Date()); gtag('config', 'G-04SJ2KTSCK',{ cookie_flags: 'max-age=7200;secure;samesite=none' }); Welcome! } Dont use a high pressure or youll blast the piston out of there like a rocket. The pump piston pushes the oil out then pulls it back in as it returns. And the control rod must be perfectly straight. There are four bolts around the PTO bearing flange. While these tips are specifically for the Ford 8N, many other models of antique tractors will show similar symptoms when their hydraulics need attention. Attach a heavy implement (anything weighing at least 150 pounds should be enough). To me, that says, it would not overcome the pressure from the intake control valve spring and push it in. Never plow, etc. "url": "https://www.yesterdaystractors.com/graphics/smllogo.png", "interactionStatistic": { Support the lower links near the raised position, and place the hydraulic touch control lever at the top of the quadrant. JavaScript is disabled. I guess I wasn't clear how futile my effort was to get the lift arm ram off. Any improvement will help. https://www.steinertractor.com/IHS097-bolster-pivot-pin. Happy New Year! Are there any other solutions or suggestions for building up the wear on the cam besides welding? Thanks guys - this is exactly how it works. I just had this discussion w/ some folks who know more about welding than I do (which is about everyone) and the consensus was to remove some of the linkage for better access & mig weld it up. Tractor Identification & History, About F/FCA If a leak gets worse than a few drips, fix it. It just ain't possible to adjust the lift linkage on the 8N Ford unless you have a jig to use so that the end of the control rod ends up in the right position. Good adjustment can be done with a leak in the system but for good operation and in order to take full advantage of going into the lift it Guess I can lay awake for a couple of weeks thinking about it until I can get back to it. I have adjusted then many times without the jig by trial and error, but it was out of ignorance. Come to think of it that might have been a little too profound a remark! May have nothing to do with my issues but seems dumb to leave it like that. I.E., I can grab it and move it freely front to back. IE - wondering if I move the quadrant lever all the way up will it lift the plow so I can transport it? Here is the pic. I would cut a big V into the crack and weld it with a 7018 rod. If temperatures have been below freezing, the water will freeze. What youre hearing is the sound of cams/pistons in the pump banging together. Control Arm Adjustment (1) Place the hydraulic control unit upside down. As for the adjustment, I followed the instructions in the very old version of the I&T Shop manual I have. If the hydraulics either go all the way up or all the way down (with no control in the middle), the problem is likely with your pivot pins. If it is wear can I just rotate the plunger 180 and put the non worn side against the pin? Another question if I may. "@type": "Person", Did you ever solve it? Figured that out after I sent the last message. However, when I flip the lever to "draft control" my plow will drop to the ground and the lift will not lift it anymore. I did take a look at it before I put it back together. "headline":"8n hydraulic lift cover adjustments", Call 1-888-567-0015 Facebook Like this: If its knocking loudly you should buy a pump repair kit and do a rebuild before it quits all together. Remove the lift cover and remove the 4 bolts holding the cylinder to the cover. My pic is attached. I have a friend that has your jig (or, I should say purchased one). Enough to cause the lift issues? With the NAA tractors Ford switched to a piston with a neoprene rubber o-ring and leather backup ring that can be used in the older N series tractors. Contact Us So, if water isn't getting past the shifter socket, how does it get in the sump? My pic is attached. If the oil looks milky, its got water in it. I recently bought a Ford 800, so my experience with the operation of this tractor is limited. You must log in or register to reply here. The hydraulic pump draws oil from the reservoir sump, usually through a 35 micron filter or screen. Luckily the tractor gets little work. It just ain't possible to adjust the lift linkage on the 8N Ford unless you have a jig to use so that the end of the control rod ends up in the right position. Wrong? Little heat and came off pretty easily. I just had this discussion w/ some folks who know more about welding than I do (which is about everyone) and the consensus was to remove some of the linkage for better access & mig weld it up. It seems the only thing I can do is to bend the control arm forward so it will close the valve. (6) Install the hydraulic unit on the tractor, making sure that the end of the control arm enters the opening in the valve control lever and that the control arm is not bent or damaged in any way during this operation. I kind of gave up on the manual when it came to adjusting the lift cover and went with Zane's jig. Do not unscrew the plugs to try and get water to flow faster. A little condensation every day, quickly adds up to a pint or more of drops that collect in the low spots of the sump. TRADEMARK DISCLAIMER: Tradenames and Trademarks referred to within Yesterday's Tractor Co. products and within the Yesterday's Tractor Co. websites are the property of their respective trademark holders. $32.95 . The crack has nothing to do with the lift performance at this time. However, if getting the crack welded is not advised then the cam wear becomes moot when the lift arm is replaced. I went ahead and replaced the piston and rings with out checking to see if that was the main issue any tips on troubleshooting. Measuring parts just won't cut it when all the parts are not still the same shape and measurement that they were when new about 50 years ago. https://www.steinertractor.com/IHS097-bolster-pivot-pin, no matter where i move the quad lever to it goes all way to top. Wrong? Am I missing something? }, The 8N hydraulic system is simple yet elegant and works great when properly adjusted and maintained. Get the adjusting jig from Zane. Now Zane, that sounds like a challenge that I'm up to. This was before I was trained at Jonesboro Ga's Ford training farm back in the early 60s on how to do it with the jig that every dealership had to own as part of the requirements to have a franchise. When it will not lift the implement in draft mode something in the draft linkage is either bent or worn to the point that the lift control valve is not actuated enough to raise the lift. The 9N-2N lift is much simpler with only one external adjustment. Plate was about 1/32 concave on one edge. Don't put your body under or in line with any force you are employing. Water is heavier than oil, so this condensation runs down and collects at the bottom of your sump (where the pump is located). FIRST push the clutch in and make SURE the PTO is engaged. Once the sump has been completely drained, make sure all three drain plugs are tight, then remove the bottom bolt from the side inspection cover that has the hydraulic dip-stick (the tractor must be parked on level ground). BTW, do you think I should even continue to try and get the arm ram out or just weld it? Still, that is just native grass and weeds. "width": 200, Never plow, etc. 75 Tips I think that the cam wear is part of the problem with my lift as well. You can remove the piston fron the cylinder by applying a little compressed air to the oil inlet hole in the cylinder. Have a friend with a MIG welder but Zane advised 7018 stick welding, which I'm sure I could get done in town. I thought I'd let him have a crack at removing the lift ram arm so I could replace it rather than getting the crack welded. Still, that is just native grass and weeds. And the control rod must be perfectly straight. I'm new to this forum stuff. "name": "Jasmith503" Leaky or sticking valves in the side chambers will also make the pump knock loudly. Such folks bend it with a length of pipe in the inspection port(s). " To find this position, slightly loosen the four cap screws that support the quadrant. Looking at the condition of the fluid when checking the level can help indicate when the fluid should be changed. "@type": "Person", . The 3-point lift will pick up a lot more weight close to the tractor, than it will out on the end of a boom pole. How's this procedure Zane? Two large plugs under the transmission, and hydraulic pump, and one smaller pipe plug under the differential housing. While you are looking for leaks, you should see some indication that fluid is being sucked into the pump from the sump. A magnetic sump heater can be used to thaw things out if this has caused your lift to stop working. It makes a big difference. plow should lift at the top of the quad in draft contorl.. if it won't.. it needs adjustment. "interactionType": "https://schema.org/CommentAction", "dateModified": "2001-10-31", However my problem on my 51 8n is the lift arms go all the way up and wont go down unless I let it set for several days. Just give them a ring to get started. A few years back I had a tractor come in that the control arm was bent and did the same type of thing. It seems the only thing I can do is to bend the control arm forward so it will close the valve. I previously posted a pic of the crack. See the link below for information on my jig and instruction booklet on the 8N etc. It is bent to the front which I would think would help me. 8n position control adjustment discussion in the Ford 9N.draft links changes the deflection of the load control shaft PGJ Installation and Adjustment of Arch, Radius, Precipitation Rate and Nozzle with Video Some of the most frequently asked ones are listed at the bottom of this page An estimator to track the states of the UAV using the images. Then, wet some rags & stuff them in the cover to catch the shavings when you grind it back down. (Long), Ford 8N Hydraulic Control Unit Adjustment. Thanks, while I was hunting around I did see the postings yesterday re Zane's jig, etc. John Quoting Removed, click Modern View to see Thanks. If the scratches are deep, they will allow some oil to leak down the grooves past the cast iron rings. Dirt and other contaminants collect in the fluid and there is no filtration to remove them. It is critical. Pressing or driving a common .3125 pin into the .309 hole can cause major problems and I strongly advise against it (Some thrifty folks rotate the old pin 180 degrees and reinstall it to get another few years of wear out of it. At the time I had an extra top cover and just installed that on his machine and all was well. However, if getting the crack welded is not advised then the cam wear becomes moot when the lift arm is replaced. To raise the plow pull touch control all the way up to raise the plow. The V8-8N has a Howard step-down that provides a second range of gears approximately 1/3 the normal gear ratios. I'll send an e-mail to your site. 1 - Has it rained or been humid recently? The two-sided linkage on the 9N/2N is a much bigger pain in the rump to get hooked up than the single-ended linkage for the 8N. You've done it, I haven't. What do you think? It will only raise the plow with touch all the way up. (6) Install the hydraulic unit on the tractor as outlined in section 382, but do not install the inspection plate. Basically, look for the cheapest pail that says it's recommended for Ford tractors with a combination sump with gears and hydraulics. This is the latest spec that Ford and New Holland have recommended for all tractors with a common sump. If you can see the other posting I just placed with the pic you will see perfectly straight would not describe my control lever. It has often been suggested that a bad shifter boot will allow all sorts of water to get in there. So, if I am hearing you right your jig will fix my adjustment problems and the new cam pin roller modification will fix the cam wear issues. I just replied to another response to my post, with a pic and a question. John Deere and its logos are the registered trademarks of the John Deere Corporation. There is only one position in which the quadrant support plate can be located where both of the above conditions will be met. There's a good reason to talk about the weather, it affects everything. I replaced the position control pin, and straightened the control arm. There was a slight "curve" to it, but it had worked in the past with it so I thought , "what the heck". "width": 200, The PTO shaft should spin when you release the clutch. "url": "https://www.yesterdaystractors.com/graphics/smllogo.png", Any suggestions? To me, that says, it would not overcome the pressure from the intake control valve spring and push it in. Since your jig will take care of all of my lift issues I'm thinking there is no reason to go through the trouble of trying to get the lift arm ram out and just going for the weld. $97.57 $101.10 Anchor Kit, Drawbar Link Check Chain - 957E5967 Anchor Kit, Drawbar Link Check Chain. Right there in the slot as a STOP to prevent going higher. Pic attached. Should the cam be smooth across its width?". This post was edited by jasmith503 at 16:49:31 06/09/15. Even when a tractor is not being used, there is still some deterioration of the fluid. Make sure the rod is connected and that it is moving the control valve spools in and out as you move the lift control lever up and down. Its generally not an immediate pressing problem. Your email address will not be published. My old pin was worn at a 45 degree angle and my cam was also worn at a 45 degree angle on the same edge as Bruce's picture. Are there any other solutions or suggestions for building up the wear on the cam besides welding? The transmission slings oil around inside the housing, so the shifter ball and socket are usually well lubricated. May be where I end up depending on what Zane says. "height": 57 If you can see the other posting I just placed with the pic you will see perfectly straight would not describe my control lever. Of course, once you diagnose the problem you still need to fix it! I previously posted a pic of the crack. Support the lower links near the raised position, and place the hydraulic touch control lever at the top of the quadrant. "@type": "ImageObject", "@type": "InteractionCounter", I would cut a big V into the crack and weld it with a 7018 rod. Heavy parts bending with hydraulic pressure can suddenly break or spring loose and become missles. Draining water as it collects in the sumps can help to extend the fluid change interval, but fluid does not last forever. This one is a separate page Live Hydraulics. If you will get one of my 8N lift adjusting jig fixtures you can fix that lift. No leaks, and no indication of suction, could be stuck valves or something major broken in the pump. Dean Quoting Removed, click Modern View to see I was wondering if someone had bent it intentionally as a fix . Zane I would cut a big V into the crack and weld it with a 7018 rod. The only things I can add is that it helps to have two people. All you need is a wing-nut, a 3/4-inch nylon bushing, and a screw. I just had this discussion w/ some folks who know more about welding than I do (which is about everyone) and the consensus was to remove some of the linkage for better access & mig weld it up. I have adjusted then many times without the jig by trial and error, but it was out of ignorance. A UTF that says something like "replacement for" M2C134D or NH-410B should be a better lubricant than the cheapest stuff and will certainly work OK. Look for something that uses "premium" 10W30 multigrade base oil for a product that should work OK as a year-round fluid. If no major leakage is noted, then check the pump pressure as outlined in the FO-4 manual. ZANE THANG & STUFF It just ain't possible to adjust the lift linkage on the 8N Ford unless you have a jig Now Zane, that sounds like a challenge that I'm up to. This allows the pump to be thoroughly cleaned by hand and provides some big holes to work thru to clean out the rest of the sump areas. The control valve spools in the pump base can leak due to scoring in the bores but this is rare and generally not repairable except by a major pump rebuild. Measuring parts just won't cut it when all the parts are not still the same shape and measurement that they were when new about 50 years ago. The crack has nothing to do with the lift performance at this time. "@type":"DiscussionForumPosting", Also, followed the instructions from the current shop manual the local New Holland Ford mechanic uses that he was nice enough to give me a copy of. "@type": "ImageObject", Again, thank you for the help. 2 - Did it freeze last night? I have copied the steps from my August 18, 1948 operators manual below. How's this procedure Zane? Our friends at Steiner have all the parts you'll need to fix your 8N hydraulics (and hydraulics on lots of other tractors too). John Thanks for the suggestion. Should the cam be smooth across its width? STOP when the fluid begins to leak out of the bolt hole. TRADEMARK DISCLAIMER: Tradenames and Trademarks referred to within Yesterday's Tractor Co. products and within the Yesterday's Tractor Co. websites are the property of their respective trademark holders. I replaced the pin, but still need to order Zane's jig to properly adjust. Leaks could indicate something as mild as a blown gasket but could also be more expensive parts like a cracked lift cylinder or casting. Case, Case-IH, Farmall, International Harvester, New Holland and their logos are registered trademarks of CNH Global N.V. window.dataLayer = window.dataLayer || []; function gtag(){dataLayer.push(arguments);} gtag('js', new Date()); gtag('config', 'G-04SJ2KTSCK',{ cookie_flags: 'max-age=7200;secure;samesite=none' }); Welcome! It may not have been changed in many years. It is bent forward which I thought would help if anything, wrong? Start the tractor, press the clutch, make sure the PTO is engaged. The only way arms go up is to hold draft control lever down. When the pump is new you get a slight knocking as the lift reaches the set height. That adjustment would work on a lift that was prestine but it ain't! Any moisture we can drain off this way will not be in there to mix with the fluid when it warms up. This post was edited by jasmith503 at 16:47:01 06/09/15. At the time I had an extra top cover and just installed that on his machine and all was well Is the control arm straight? Enough to cause the lift issues? Remove the right inspection plate that has the hydraulic dip-stick. Almost like the pin wore down the cam rather than the pin being worn. When having a 5' foot bush hog connected to the 3 pt arms, the lift height is maybe 3" to 4" max. Membership Or do I need to move it to "position Control" to transport my plow? of the hydraulic touch control lever and lift arms to be sure they were not moved while making the adjustments. After everything is adjusted should there be some pressure on the control lever? My email address is provided for tractor questions. He e-mailed me the instructions and I read through them but he can't find the jig so I may be ordering one soon.

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